The Dog’s got the Potato Pancakes covered… Chanukah in Binghamton.
I am on a very serious quest to find the Best Latkes in Binghamton. Don’t mess.
When I moved to Johnson City 3 years ago, I knew a grand total of 1 other Jew in the Southern Tier. Our first Chanukah together, we decided to make latkes. Well, we decided to ATTEMPT to make latkes. Important distinction.
He claimed he knew how. He claimed he had the necessary skills. He claimed he had made them before.
He lied.
I was betrayed.
Without going into too much detail, let’s just say we spent that evening shoveling half-cooked flour/egg/potato/dough-balls into our mouths like so much cookie dough. While watching A Charlie Brown Christmas on TV. *sigh*
Flash forward two years. I’m utterly determined to find a decent latke in Binghamton. With a new tool at my disposal: Facebook.
I flip on over to Joshua Aurbach’s page (Kosher Black & White Cookie/Challah King of Broome County). Surely, Josh must know where in Binghamton the potato pancake resides. I tap out a message: “Doing a story on BingPop about latkes. Wondering where I can get my hands on a good greasy potato pancake.”
His response: “The Jewish Community Center. And my Mom.”
*sigh* Another dead end. Being a 3-holiday-a-year Jew, I don’t have a membership at the JCC. And I don’t have Josh’s Mom’s number.
(PS, Josh’s challah is now available in Weis markets. All must try. And if you’ve never had challah before, prepare to have your world rocked.)
In one final act of desperation, I post a status update: “Looking for latke’s in Binghamton. Does ANYBODY know where I can find them.” Lo and behold, the answer presents itself: I am informed by uber-hip forward-thinking business-savvy shiksa restaurateur Marie McKenna—co-owner of the Lost Dog—that each year her café hosts a Latke night every year!
Well what else could I do? I cleared my schedule and prepared for a ravishing round of dreidel.
And dreidel there was. Wooden dreidels, by the way. In all my Jewish years, I’ve never once seen a clay dreidel. That dreidel song is bullsh*t. We were also given Chanuakah gelt—chocolate coins in tin wrapping. dreidel, you may not know, is a gambling game. It’s no wonder my Grandma likes Bingo so much; we’re trained when we’re young.
(Yes, I know, dreidel can also be a drinking game. I was in college once too.)
But let’s talk about the food! Marie and her staff didn’t stop at latkes. There were three Chanukah-themed entrees: a sweet and sour beef brisket, salmon in a tomato ginger sauce, and roast chicken with challah, apricot and pine-nut stuffing. YUM. Apparently, as news of Lost Dog’s annual Chanukah dinner spread, Marie’s Jewish friends began to come out of the woodwork with old family recipes. She mixes it up every year.
I tried to brow-beat my table into ordering ALL of the holiday selections (by accusing them of hating Chanukah if they refused), but my ploy was only half effective. One dinner-mate insisted on reliving the three-hundred and seventy other times she’d downed the restaurants famous penne a la vodka. After all was said and done, we ordered 3 of the 4. Our ratings are below…
The Brisket - 4 Dreidels!
The Chicken - 5 Dreidels!
The Latkes - 4 Dreidels!
A few words about the latkes themselves: They were utterly close to receiving five dreidels, but latkes, like chicken soup or mac & cheese, are only truly satisfying if they taste IDENTICAL to the way your parents made them when you were a child.
For me, that meant literally gallons of oil. Seriously, I’m pretty sure Grandma ran down the block to McDonald’s and used their deep-fryer to make McLatkes. Latkes weren’t latkes if the oil hadn’t soaked through the paper-plate, the paper towel beneath, the plastic placemat under that, and the oak wood table beneath them all to create a dripping puddle of fat on the tile floor below. Not that it was only my Grandma—it was truly a family trait. I remember enjoying my mother’s brownie recipe for YEARS before I found out that it involved 3 full sticks of butter. Literally. THREE STICKS. It’s mind-boggling that there was room in the pan for any other ingredients. It was butter with brown food coloring.
At this very moment, somewhere in North Jersey there is a 30-year-old clutching his chest as a result of artery plaque that can be traced back to the brownies he had on my birthday in our second grade homeroom class.
Anyway, everyone at my table had a fantastic time. And something you’ll learn about latkes: they are served with either sour cream or apple sauce, rarely both. You can spend an entire Chanukah meal arguing which is best—and I have; well, you can only play dreidel for so long… Although we did spend time between latkes and the main course playing for pennies (and, for some reason, a drink chip worth $3.50… I think we were one penny short.)
My one and ONLY complaint about that fantastic Chanukah meal—are you listening Lost Dog—was the lack of a suitable wine pairing for the latkes… Take note: The San Francisco Chronicle recommends a good Chardonnay.
